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Hope he/she is okay. Shorebreak can be pounding… It is the kind of spot where real injuries can occur and then it is a long walk back to the campground with any injury.
Tore my medial patellar retinaculum (knee cap holder) about fifteen years ago and took me almost an hour to hobble back to people.
Much worse, in the 90’s saw someone land on their fin in the shorepound. Not pretty. Luckily, it was summer and a parks ranger was able to drive pretty close.